The Dirt On Cotton

Most people think of cotton as a “natural” product but the reality is far from the truth.

Cotton is one of the most chemically intensive crops in the world.

It covers 2.5% of the worlds cultivated land yet uses 16% of the worlds insecticides, more than any other single major crop.

Although a natural fibre, it takes 20,000 litres of water to make 1kg of cotton. 20 million tonnes of cotton are produced yearly. According to the US Department Of Agriculture, 84 million pounds of pesticides and two billion pounds of fertilisers were applied to the nations 14.4 million acres of cotton in the year 2000.

Seven of the 15 pesticides commonly used on cotton in the United States (the third biggest cotton producer behind India and China) are listed as “possible,” “probable,” “likely” or “known” human carcinogens according to the Environmental Protection Agency.

Fawn Pattison, executive director of The Agricultural Resource Centre - a nonprofit organisation dedicated to reducing the use of harmful pesticides in the United States, says “cotton defoliants are the most toxic farm chemicals currently on the market.” These defoliants are used to strip the leaves from the plant before harvest.

There are however alternatives for those willing to pay a little more for bedding. Organic cotton grown without the use of synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or defoliants. Right now organic cotton represents less than 0.7% of global cotton production. Another alternative natural fibre is linen.

Currently worn by less than 1% of consumers but a growing trend as consumers seek

sustainable alternatives to cotton, and linen is ticking the boxes.

A vegetable fibre, linen is an annual crop derived from the flax plant, the same plant that brings you linseeds and linseed oil. It is 100% recyclable and uses few pesticides and fertilisers. It also requires very little water as it is grown in cooler high rainfall areas. And it is extremely hard wearing, lasting 2 -3 times longer than cotton.

Yet the market is slowly changing as designers, manufacturers and retailers become more educated about the environmental impact of textile production. As designers we need to ensure there is transparency in our supply chain from seed to harvest and on to processing and manufacturing.

This includes farmers getting a fair price for crops, fair working conditions for employees throughout the process. The more educated we become the more we can educate our consumers.

I think we all have a responsibility to feel pride in knowing that our product ticks these boxes and our customers can feel good knowing they are supporting fair trade and caring for our planet...